After my extensive search for my hostel, I finally got settled and went out for dinner. “Dinner” in Spain is usually taken around 9pm, since people work until 7:30 or so. Friends gather at bars, order a drink, and receive tapas, a free hor d'oeuvre, with their purchase. Going to a little bar, I watched the locals for a while before trying it myself. It all seems fairly straightforward, but ordering in a foreign language in a crowded bar was a daunting idea. However, despite the language barrier, the barman figured out what I was asking for quite easily and I received my drink (roughly a half pint San Miguel) and a plate of jamón, chorizo, and cheese, along with a side of bread. This was so fulfilling that on my next go, I ordered two at once, and received tapas of paella and some fried potatoes and peppers. There was no real “class” to the atmosphere or the food, but it was culturally delightful. And for less than 5 euro, I was full and slightly tipsy.
The next night, on advice from Taneeka, I went for tapas at el Mercado de San Miguel. This seems like a very popular spot for tapas among locals, since the place was packed. Here you had to order your tapas separately (ie. they didn’t come free with a drink), but they were of very high quality. A smoked salmon and a crab dip tapas and a glass of sangria made for a fine, albeit small, meal. But mainly it was a wonderful experience because I got to participate in a common cultural ritual, which as a tourist, is sometimes difficult to do.